I feel many of you are still unclear on your starting position, your ending position, and your recovery. Let me summarize it all. First, the forehand drive. Today we had many players who've only been playing a year or two. They all show the classic fault — pushing front and back. This is the first thing we must correct. In table tennis, you must never move front and back. For example, this is my forehand half of the table. On the backswing, my hand should sit on this white line. After the swing, it's an outside-to-inside, right-to-left motion. Today a lot of players pull the elbow back and forth. This must be fixed. Your forearm must open outward, parallel to the table — then close inward. Never front and back. Your starting point is at the same height as your hip, opening from back to front, like this. Most of you are doing this instead. That's wrong. So the first key point: open the forearm outward, parallel, then close inward. Let's try it. Today we'll get clear on the start and finish of every stroke, then the forehand, then recovery. Another problem with Xiaojia's forehand drive: her backswing has the forearm lower than the elbow. Forearm lower than elbow leads to brushing upward — which means not enough impact. Your ball gets arc but no forward drive. So in the forehand frame, the forearm and elbow must stay level. Level them, then press forward and close the arm. The forearm must never be lower than the elbow — that mixes loop and drive. Keep the body upright, don't pull the hand back. Level the forearm. Good. That's the forehand drive. Now let's talk about the forehand loop. It's very different from the drive. In the drive, the hand goes to the side of the body. For the loop — it not only rotates, it presses down. What changes? The body's center of gravity. The drive is upright. The loop compresses like a roly-poly toy. The loop has a downward press. So on the backswing, you not only rotate — you also press down. You must press first, then rotate. If you rotate first, you'll forget to press. So press the weight into your right side first, then let the body drive the arm and wrist. Do the rotation fully. The loop involves the whole arm and body coordination — so it's more demanding. That's the first point. Second: on the backswing, the forearm drops down now — not parallel like the drive. The drive is parallel; the loop goes downward. That's the press. So two key points: one is press, one is forearm turning downward. On contact, even though I start there, my body traces an outside arc — then up and inward, closing to between my eyebrows. On this point, three things go wrong: many go left, many go up, many stand the elbow up. All wrong. The elbow and forearm form a triangle — not a vertical elbow, not a flat elbow. A triangle. You can't put your hand behind your thigh — you'll get jammed. Follow this path and you won't drift. The motion is a standard A-B-C now. But her A-point is close to her body — that's correct. So find your A-point. The B and C points — your starting position is critical. The worst problem: pulling back parallel. On the forehand topspin loop, drop the forearm, keep it near your thigh. Never pull back parallel. Use the body to drive the hand out. Now let's talk about the backspin loop. The biggest difference from topspin is the center of gravity. Topspin I'm upright. Backspin I must compress — like a spring. Press it down. And the backswing moves from the thigh to the right hip. She follows instructions completely now, so she does really well — genuinely good for a year-plus of play. On the backswing, keep it close to your body. When it comes out — look, the arm traces a circle. Most players in the club go in a straight line. Too much front-back motion. So: A-point close, and the arm must relax. Why isn't your backswing relaxed? Because you pull back parallel. If you drop the forearm down — the shoulder, upper arm, and forearm all relax. Only by dropping the forearm can you relax. Pulling back parallel — you can only loosen the wrist and grip, which hurts your stability. Now the difficulty of the backspin loop: why can I land it sometimes and miss other times? Penhold and shakehand — same question. Because topspin is a flat ball — one swing works. Backspin has spin, half-spin, no-spin, heavy spin. So here's the question: for different spins, is the starting position the same? What changes is the finish, not the start. For the same height — spin or no spin, start the same. Spin, half-spin, no-spin — same start. When does the start change? Only when the ball goes high or low. What we change is the finish. How? On a very spinny ball — go forward and up more. The upper arm rises to neck height. On a half-spin ball — swing to where the elbow is at chest height. That's the standard you've been taught. Use elbow height to adjust. Heavy spin — elbow higher, at chest level. Not very spinny — below chest. But the start stays the same. Many of you have it backwards — you change the start and keep the finish fixed. You lift up on every ball. Spin or no spin, you stop early. That's wrong. Honestly, you can't always read the spin 100%. So if your start is fixed, at least you won't net it. If you think it's no-spin and lift your hand, you'll swing on a flat arc — high net rate. In matches, adapt to the opponent. Heavy — loop one way. Half-spin — loop another. That's the standard. Now — what if the ball changes height? Should you change the backswing? Yes. When the ball is very low — even below the net — keep the normal backswing. At right-hip height. When the ball bounces about one racket-head higher than the net — move the backswing from the hip up to the waist. Don't swing further back, or you'll go long. When it's much higher — beyond one racket — match the ball's height. Raise proportionally. Let me repeat: below the net — normal backswing, right hip. About one racket-head high — take back to the waist. Higher than one racket — match the height, rise proportionally. Why do amateurs miss half-high balls? They don't raise the racket proportionally. Match the ball's height. In the end, table tennis is about the arc — controlling your net arc and your length arc. Not every no-spin ball means you lift. It might have hidden spin. Only when it's a racket-head above the net do you adjust behind it. Let's try. Low ball — right hip. Slightly higher — waist. Much higher — lift up. See — the error rate drops. Not zero errors — but fewer. Many of you are still confused on the height point. This is a key focus. First: the start and finish. Second: adapt to ball height. A bit of a half-high — don't put it behind the hip, or you'll whip it out. Put it at the waist. Beyond one racket — a racket and a half, even higher — match the ball's height. This high, so this high. This high, so this high. If the ball is low, use your normal backswing. What changes is the finish. That's all experience, everyone. One more classic question. On the loop — should you use more friction or more impact? This is the classic debate. When your position is bad — the ball comes wide, fast, or suddenly short — you must use more friction. Move your feet, give it more brush. When can you hit harder? Only when you've read it perfectly — like a serve-and-attack where you predicted it, you're set, comfortable. Then impact and friction can be about equal — or even 60% impact, 40% friction. But if I predicted one spot and the opponent pushes somewhere else — or pops up a half-high ball I didn't expect — even then, it's not impact-first. Because you have to move your feet — your read is already late. Simple rule: only when I predicted it and I'm set like in practice can impact exceed friction. Any other ball — even a half-high — after I adjust my position, friction still exceeds impact. That's the only way to become high-level. In matches, what matters is who lands the ball — not who hits hardest. Otherwise we'd all do weightlifting. Unless you read it perfectly, keep friction dominant.